Costa Rica

Costa Rica With Young Children: Arenal's Hot Springs, Then the Pacific Coast

Nine nights from San José to Liberia without doubling back: a night by the airport, three at a hot-springs resort below Arenal Volcano, then five on the Papagayo coast, with every transfer and outing private.

Nights9
SeasonEaster week
StyleBoutique and luxury
PaceRelaxed
SuitsA family with young children
Based onA trip I booked for clients

Where to stay, and why

Marriott Hacienda Belén

Belén, near San José airport · 1 night

A bed a short drive from the airport, on a night when the flight lands late. It is a simple room-only stop, and it beats a three-hour drive to Arenal in the dark with tired children. The long drive waits until everyone has slept.

Nayara Gardens

La Fortuna, Arenal · 3 nights

Hot springs on the property, below Arenal Volcano, so the afternoon soak needs no car. The room is set up for a family: a king bed and two day beds for the children, and breakfast for everyone.

Andaz Peninsula Papagayo

Papagayo Peninsula, Guanacaste · 5 nights

A beach, pools, a children's club, paddleboards and kayaks, on the coast and close to the flight home from Liberia. A suite with a king bed and a queen sofa bed, breakfast daily, and water, soft drinks and snacks in the minibar at no charge. An all-inclusive plan is available as an add-on.

Day by day

  1. Day 1

    Belén

    A late landing in San José, then a private transfer for the short run to the hotel. I asked for snacks for the children to be in the car.

  2. Day 2

    La Fortuna

    From the airport to the volcano: a private transfer of about three hours to La Fortuna, check-in at Nayara Gardens, and the afternoon in the hot springs.

  3. Day 3

    Arenal

    Sloths, toucans and whatever else is moving, on a private guided walk. It's a gentle walk, not a hike. The rest of the day belongs to the hot springs.

  4. Day 4

    Arenal

    Monkeys, sloths, iguanas, crocodiles and birds, seen from the water on a private safari float. It is a gentle drift down the river, not rapids. Back to the pools for the afternoon.

  5. Day 5

    Papagayo Peninsula

    From the volcano to the Pacific: a private transfer of about three hours to the Andaz, then beach and pool for the rest of the day.

  6. Days 6 to 8

    Papagayo Peninsula

    Left open, on purpose. Breakfast comes with the room, and the day gets decided over it: the pool, the beach, a paddleboard or a kayak, or the children's club.

  7. Day 9

    Papagayo Peninsula

    A day out on a private boat: snorkeling for anyone who wants it, dolphins if you're lucky, and a barbecue on the beach.

  8. Day 10

    Liberia

    A last breakfast, then a private transfer to Liberia airport for the flight home.

What made it work

  • Into San José and out of Liberia, so the trip only moves in one direction and the last drive is a short one.
  • Every transfer and outing is private, run by my partner in Costa Rica, who is on call around the clock while you are there. That matters when one of your travelers needs a nap, and it beats a rental car: no three hours at the wheel with children in the back, and no surprise at the counter over Costa Rica's mandatory liability insurance, which credit-card cover does not include.
  • Three nights of hot springs with two easy outings, then five on the coast with almost nothing on the calendar.
  • Breakfast for everyone at both resorts, with Virtuoso amenities where they apply.

From my own weekend in La Fortuna

The sloth walk. I’ve done one around La Fortuna myself, in my long weekend in La Fortuna. Our guide carried a spotting scope on a tripod, and phone photos taken through the lens came out sharp. We saw four sloths, one of them a mother with her baby.

Eat early in town. La Fortuna starts winding down around nine, and most kitchens are dark by ten.

Pack a rain shell. Easter falls inside the driest stretch, December to April, but pop-up showers still come through.

Cash and tips. Colones and US dollars are taken nearly everywhere and cards do most of the work, but keep small bills for fruit stands and tips. Restaurants add a 10% service charge, and a guide or driver who made the day appreciates a little extra on top.

Passports. US passport holders need no visa. The passport should be valid for at least a month past arrival, and you can be asked for proof of onward travel.